Portugal is far more than its famous cities. The moment you leave the marked routes, you find real little gems, unexpected places and an enchanting culture. We went in September, here are three regions, three moods, to link together by car.

1 The Algarve, feet in the waterSouthern Portugal

In the south, the Algarve lines up Mediterranean beaches and protected natural sites, between dramatic cliffs and sandy bays. In Ferragudo, an authentic village, you wander to the rhythm of the waves and taste Dom Rodrigo, fresh egg yolk, almonds and sugar. Water sports, sailing, the Ria Formosa lagoon and ocean-facing golf courses, under a sunny climate all year round. Our address: the Grand House Algarve, a Relais & Châteaux house on the Guadiana.

A cove on the Algarve coast
The coves of the Algarve

2 The Alentejo, historySouth-Central

This vast region, a third of the country, remains surprisingly little known: medieval villages and vineyards as far as the eye can see. Elvas, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the largest fortified city in Europe; Marvão offers a romantic setting and a sweeping view over the vineyards, between castle and preserved architecture. Kayaking on the Guadiana or riding on horseback, the real Portugal, far from mass tourism. Our address: Malhadinha Nova, facing the vines and the rolling plains.

3 The Douro Valley, the vineyardsNear Porto

Near Porto, the magnificent curves of the terraced hills follow the river. Ventozelo and the São Leonardo da Galafura viewpoint offer superb panoramas; September, harvest season, is ideal. Tastings of Port and Douro wines, then Porto and its beautiful coloured houses. Our address: the Six Senses Douro Valley, a renovated 19th-century manor, for an exclusive and intimate stay.

The terraced vineyards of the Douro Valley
The terraced vineyards of the Douro

Three regions, a single road: that is the whole charm of Portugal off the beaten track, the freedom to stop where the light is beautiful, and to stay one more day.

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